Got a few spare bucks…

…and want to help lots of people who desperately need it?  Your dollars won’t go to waste here:

You’ll see from the “Do Something Nice” page on this blog that I am involved in animal welfare charities (mostly pit bull rescue), but Ravi Bansal is doing something great for some poor people in this world.  Never met the guy, but he’s a relative of some of the best people I know.  Take a look.

And if you have a blog or any other pulpit, please pass it on.



Providing medical care to someone you just shot (part 2)

I had a post on this subject below.  Today, in their latest Journal, the Armed Citizens Legal Defense Network had this as their “Attorney Question of the Month”, in which they asked a bunch of people who’ve like actually gone to law school and stuff to give their opinion.

You’ll see some different opinions there, and the range of responses definitely provides some angles I hadn’t considered.  Well worth the small amount of time to read.  You can also read the entire Journal, which is one of the benefits of the ACLDN, my preferred self-defense insurance provider.  Good people there.

I still stand by my original take on the subject, but now I feel better informed and somewhat validated.

An impassioned plea to firearms manufacturers

I helped out recently at a class for new shooters, many women.  Every woman showed up with small pistol that they had either been sold by some piece of gun shop crap, or given by their ignorant husbands or boyfriends.  Some of the women could not even work the slide on their “little lady guns”.

<Want to screeeeeem!>

Most guns are too big in the grip for women.  Hell, I have dead average size hands for a man (in the U.S.) and most double stack pistols are too big for my hands.

Many women can’t reach the  controls of most handguns easily – a design issue with the  blame at the feet of the manufacturers, not a consequence of physics.

All new shooters are surprised to learn that big guns are easier to shoot, easier to manipulate, and have less recoil than small guns.  The gun shops are responsible for selling them the small guns that are useless.  Curse them!  Further, even if you carry a small gun you should do most of your skill development with a full size one (see post somewhere below on this).

There is no acceptable gun for most woman to learn on and/or carry on the market.  A tuned steel revolver in K-frame size with small stocks and light loads would be good to learn on…but what would she carry?

“Practice” and “skill development” or, if you really are a macho idiot, “strength gains”, are not the answer for women.  Sure everyone needs a good dose of these, but why should women have to be at a disadvantage to men here – why do they have to work impossibly hard at it?  Remember that most women, like most new shooters, are not going to make this their passion in life – they just want to get enough skill to defend themselves; they are not shooting junkies nor will they be.

Small revolvers, and ones with hard triggers (which is almost a small ones) have a trigger that’s way too heavy.

SA guns, in any size, are not a beginner’s gun.

DA/SA guns are not only not a beginners gun, they suffer from all the issues above (trigger weight, control reach), and are generally kinda stupid to begin with (they can be mastered, but really, why go through the extra work?).

.22 revolvers or pistols are not the answer because .22s are such unreliable rounds.

So herewith my plea to the industry, and industry by the way that knows that women are the fastest growing segment of the market:  make a gun that’s both suitable for a small statured, small-handed, not-too-strong person to both train on and carry.  Design a new one – don’t plate an existing one pink.  I have two suggestions:

  • A tip-up barrel .380 auto, striker-fired, DAO.  Big enough that the recoil of the blowback design is minimized; small enough to carry.  Smaller than the SIG .380  (can’t recall the model number), but bigger than a Beretta Tomcat.  Work with the ammo guys to come up with a truly suitable, maximized .380 defensive round.
  • A smallish revolver in a reasonable cartridge, with a smooth, easy-to-pull trigger that’s reachable.  Something along the lines of a 3-inch j-frame in steel, maybe a little larger.  Work with the ammo guys to come up with a standard-pressure .38 cartridge that’s defense-optimized and such that the whole package is recoil-friendly.  Or hell, go the .40 S&W or .357 SIG route and invent a while new cartridge – there’s the entire female market to sell it to!

Protecting Our Kids In A Time Of Terror — (Marcus Wynne)

I doubt I have any additional readers over and above those that follow the people who’ve already posted a link to this, but just in case, here’s the link to the sage article of the same title by Marcus Wynne.   See the link to Marcus’ blog on the “recommended resources” page of this one.  The man’s been training, training with, or hanging with the tips of the spears in CT work for decades.  In the relatively short few years I’ve know him I’ve already seen some of his predictions — which to be frank I kinda doubted —  about the direction that terrorist vectors would take come true.  Unfortunately.

Six training fetishes

  1. The speed reload.  You either need to get your gun reloaded ASAP, or the fight is over; there’s not much in between.  See post below.
  2. Not using the slide lock to release the slide.  Yeah, I know that for years we taught (I sure did) that you used the off hand to slingshot the slide, but really: both work if they are instinctive for you.  I do both unconsciously now.  BTW – Paul Howe agrees; I rest my case.
  3. Shooting too fast.  I can actually get hits at close distance with .17 splits (and I don’t know if I can actually pull the trigger on my M&P any faster than that), but discovering that was an experiment; it’s not something I train to do.  I doubt you can assess what’s going on in front of your muzzle any faster than 3x/second (.33 splits).  I can’t.  For real you’ll shoot faster that you train, so ingraining anything faster than .33 splits seems to me to be a great way to set yourself up for jail.  Shooting too fast, and shooting without assessment, can be a training scar.
  4. Looking good on the range.  Sure, I want to look competent in front of onlookers as much as the next guy/gal/personage/xerson/whatever-these-days.   But every now and then you need to spend a session drawing that j-frame from your ankle holster, or whatever your actual carry method is – and yeah, I’m looking at you Mr.-1911-bigot-who-actually-carries-a-j-frame  🙂 .  This can be done at home with dry fire if you prefer, but do it you must.
  5. Isolating movement.  It’s a maxim of  competitive shooting — and of too many “tactical” instructors — that a shooter should keep their entire body still when presenting the handgun except for the necessary movement of the arms alone.  No “dipping”, no twisting, no head lowering, etc.  This is certainly true and proven in the competitive world, but over emphasized in fighting courses.  You should be moving anyway as your default in a real situation: to cover if possible, or to shield an innocent, and in any case laterally.  In the context of such movement a little dip of head lowering is irrelevant.  The time spent on draw movement isolation is better spent on learning appropriate body movement tactics and technique.
  6. Too light a trigger.  Everyone can definitely shoot faster and somewhat more accurately with a very light trigger.  But it’s a poor shot that can’t shoot acceptably well with a eight or ten pound trigger, even if that ten pounds travels over the long pull of a double-action revolver.  Less than four pounds is street-unsafe, while more than eight pounds if perhaps unnecessary.  (Which is what makes the 1911 and other SA pistols — including DA/SA ones — a true expert’s gun if they are to be street-carried at all.)  Most real-world trainers recommend about a six pound trigger on a modern striker-fired pistol.  You want to shoot the trigger in practice that you carry, so getting  a fancy after-market trigger replacement can be street-unwise, and can even hurt you later in court.

El Bobo’s advice for all you instructors out there

Our friend, Michael deBethencourt, likes to refer to himself in his classes as “el Bobo” (the fool).  Because he takes himself as unseriously as he takes seriously the material he teaches (which is a whole heap-load).   And el Bobo has some of the greatest advice I’ve ever heard for other instructors.

He asks them, “Do you have a whole lot of books and videos on firearms (or whatever  they teach)?”  They of course respond in the affirmative.  He then asks, “How many books and videos do you have on business?”

Like a hog lookin’ at a wristwatch, they are.

If you teach for money, then you are in business.  You have to run that business effectively if you are to succeed.  Most firearms instructors don’t, and one major reason is because they are unskilled at business.  Which there’s no excuse for.  After all, there’s hardly a shortage of books, videos, and websites on how to run a business.

The related thing I like to ask is, “What have you studied or done to make yourself a better teacher?”  Because if I’m attending your course I don’t give a damn what you know or how skilled you are.  I do, on the other hand, care a lot about what you can communicate to me.  Most non-big-name “instructors” I’ve seen, and even one or two of the big names, are piss-poor teachers and communicators.  Their value to you, their students, is therefore close to nil, regardless of their accomplishments, backgrounds, or skill level.

Seven must-have items that will make you a better shooter!

My friend Greg Ellifirtz recently noted what all of us writers have long known: posts about gear get like 10- times the clicks that posts about much more important things get.

Sad.  Don’t know what to say.  But hey, a brother’s gotta move with the times and go with the flow.  KnowwhatImean?

Truth is, there actually is some gear that will make you a better shooter and better fighter.  Without further delay:

  1. Ammo.  OK, suckered you here, but a case of ammo (and practicing with it) is probably a better investment than almost any piece of gear that you are contemplating acquiring.
  2. A proper holster.  You can’t draw reliably with good technique without one.  You can’t throw a spent casing anywhere in this country these days without hitting a half-dozen Kydex folders.  Many are good; some are really good.  Invest in a really good holster.
  3. A proper belt.  You can’t locate and hold that gun in it’s holster on your body effectively, nor conceal it well, without one.  You’ll need to experiment a bit with several to find one that has that Goldilocks stiffness for you – not too stiff and not too floppy.  I’ve used a Wilderness 5-stitch Frequent Flyer belt for almost 20 years, and recently bought another.
  4. A timer.  You can’t improve what you don’t measure.  I have advocated elsewhere here not getting too hung up on tenths of a second, but you still want to know if you are hitting a street-effective window of time with your technique.  With smart-phone timer apps costing a couple bucks, there’s no excuse.
  5. A zeroed gun.  I explain elsewhere here why I zero my handguns at 25 yards, with my practice ammo.  Zero at 25 yields one inch low at 7, which is a good trade-off in that that one inch is irrelevant, while a 25 zero lets me practice at distance, which is a real skill builder.  You have to know if you are missing or your gun is.  Investing in a sight set that gives you a distance zero lets you participate in distance practice, or take a distance shot for real.
  6. Real targets.  You can’t just show up at the range and plink at whatever you find that’s been left behind by someone else.  I often use just large sheets of blank paper (cheap art pads, the reverse side of cheap targets) onto which I staple various sizes of brightly colored paper to work on fundamentals.  Works fine.
  7. A Blue Gun.  You have to actually engage in scenario training to prepare for the street – all the target skill in the world isn’t enough.  As much as I like airsoft, running an airsoft (or Simunations, or whatever) scenario requires that you know what you’re doing.  Very few people know how to run a force-on-force simulation properly.  Repeat: Very few people know how to run a force-on-force simulation properly. Don’t chance it unless you have been actually certified – you simply don’t know what you don’t know.   And of course using real but ostensibly “unloaded” guns is sheer stupidity.  Blue gun scenarios provide about 75% of the value of airsoft training, and can be run much more safely.  Their real advantage over finger guns is that they fit your holster perfectly.  One costs about half of what a 500-round case of practice 9mm rounds cost.  Make the investment…and seek out really good training with it.